What Is in Lip Plumper? The Ingredients That Plump

What is in lip plumper? Most lip plumpers contain a warming ingredient that briefly increases blood flow to the lips, such as capsaicin, cinnamon, ginger, menthol or peppermint, plus hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin that make lips look smoother. Many also add peptides, vitamin E or oils for softness, and a glossy base that reflects light.

So when a plumper works, it's usually two things at once: a short-lived warming effect and well-moisturized, shiny lips. Here's what each ingredient does and how to spot it on a label.

What makes lip plumper tingle?

The tingle comes from ingredients that mildly irritate the lips on purpose. Capsaicin, the compound that makes chili peppers hot, is the best studied. In a study of 13 healthy adults, a 1% capsaicin cream on the lips caused a burning feeling that peaked within 5 minutes, and lip blood flow and temperature rose and stayed higher for the 30 minutes researchers measured (Boudreau et al.). More blood near the surface is what makes lips look a little redder and fuller.

Cinnamon oil works the same way. SpecialChem's formulation guide calls cinnamon leaf oil possibly the ingredient with "the most impact on lip plumping" because it increases blood flow, and notes that it also burns and stings and has to be used at very low levels.

Which ingredients are in lip plumpers?

Lip plumper ingredients fall into four groups: warming ingredients, hydrators, smoothing and conditioning ingredients, and the gloss base itself.

A product usually leads with one warming ingredient rather than all of them. If you see several on one label, expect a stronger sting.

How do you read a lip plumper label?

Read the ingredient list from the top. In the U.S., cosmetic ingredients are listed in descending order of predominance, so the first few make up most of the product (FDA). A few quick checks:

• Find the warming ingredient. Look for capsaicin, capsicum, cinnamon, ginger, peppermint, menthol or benzyl nicotinate. No warming ingredient usually means a hydrating gloss with a subtler effect.
• Find the hydrator. Hyaluronic acid (often listed as sodium hyaluronate) or glycerin helps the plumped look stay smooth instead of dry.
• Check for flavor and fragrance if your lips are sensitive. The American Academy of Dermatology lists cinnamon, mint, peppermint, menthol and fragrance among the ingredients to avoid while lips are chapped (AAD).
• Ignore permanent promises. A product sold to change the structure of your body is a drug under U.S. law, not a cosmetic (FDA). A gloss changes how lips look, for a while.

Are there lip plumpers without the burn?

Yes. Hydrating plumpers skip the warming ingredients and rely on hyaluronic acid, glycerin and peptides to smooth the lips, plus shine to catch the light. The Los Angeles Times describes this as a gentler, "slow burn" approach: less sting, subtler change. If the tingle type bothers you, a hydrating gloss over a thin layer of balm is the easier option.

Is lip plumper safe?

Lip plumpers are sold as cosmetics, but their warming ingredients can irritate, especially on dry or chapped lips. Patch test on a small area first, at a time you're not heading out. If your lips burn, swell painfully, peel or crack, wipe the product off and stop using it. The AAD's advice for chapped lips is to stop any product that burns, stings or tingles until they heal. If you have a skin condition on or near your lips, ask a dermatologist before trying one.

What's in Luma Lips?

Luma Lips plumping gloss uses four key ingredients:

• Capsaicin for the warming tingle and a temporary plumping effect.
• Hyaluronic acid, a humectant that helps lips hold moisture.
• Vitamin E, a conditioning ingredient for dry, chapped-looking lips.
• Palmitoyl oligopeptide, a peptide used in lip care to help lips look smoother.

It's a clear gloss with a birthday cake scent, so you can wear it alone or over lipstick. Expect a tingle after you apply it. If irritation continues, stop using it. Results vary and the effect is temporary.

Want to know what to expect from a plumper overall? Read lip plumpers that actually work, or see how to use hyaluronic acid for more on that ingredient.

FAQ

What is the main ingredient in lip plumper?

There isn't one standard ingredient. Most lip plumpers rely on a warming ingredient such as capsaicin, cinnamon, ginger, peppermint or menthol, paired with a hydrator such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin.

Why does lip plumper make my lips tingle?

Warming ingredients mildly irritate the thin skin of the lips, which increases blood flow and creates warmth or a tingle. In a study of topical capsaicin on the lips, the burning feeling peaked in the first 5 minutes and then eased.

What does hyaluronic acid do in a lip plumper?

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant: it draws water into the surface of the lips. Hydrated lips look smoother and fine lip lines show less, which adds to the fuller look without a tingle.

Is capsaicin in lip plumper the same as hot sauce?

It's the same compound that makes chili peppers hot. Lip products use it in small amounts in a cosmetic base, and you should keep it away from your eyes.

What happens if you use lip plumper every day?

Warming formulas can leave lips dry or irritated with heavy use. Follow the product's directions, use a thin layer, put a plain balm on at night, and stop if your lips start to peel or crack.

Luma by Laura makes and sells Luma Lips, the gloss mentioned in this article.

Sources: Boudreau et al., "Vascular and psychophysical effects of topical capsaicin application to orofacial tissues." Journal of Orofacial Pain; SpecialChem, "Lip plumping ingredients"; U.S. FDA, "Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?)"; American Academy of Dermatology, "7 dermatologists' tips for healing dry, chapped lips"; Los Angeles Times, "Do Lip Plumpers Work? Facts on Hyaluronic Acid & Lip Gloss".