Under-Eye Wrinkles: What an Eye Cream Can and Can't Do

Can a cream help under-eye wrinkles? It can help them look softer, but it won't make them disappear. Moisturizing ingredients like hyaluronic acid plump fine lines for a while, so they're less noticeable. Mayo Clinic says over-the-counter wrinkle creams usually make only small improvements. Dermatologists call sun protection the foundation, so daily sunscreen and sunglasses matter most.

This guide covers why lines show up under the eyes first, what common eye cream ingredients are there for, how to apply one, and how long to give it. If puffiness is more your concern than lines, start with our guide to eye care mistakes that work against your cream.

Why do wrinkles show up under the eyes first?

Because the skin there is some of the thinnest on your body, and it works hard every day. A few things add up:

• Thin skin. In a study of 452 skin samples from 28 body sites in Korean adults, eyelid skin was among the thinnest, at about 0.5 to 0.6 mm, compared with about 2 mm on the back (Lee and Hwang, 2002).
• Sun. The sun's rays make skin age faster, an effect dermatologists call photoaging. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) says sunglasses help reduce fine lines around the eyes (AAD).
• Dryness. Skin gets drier as we age, and that's when fine lines start to show (AAD).
• Smoking. It can lead to dull, dry skin and early lines and wrinkles (AAD).

For more on how skin changes over time, see our guide to the signs of aging.

What can an eye cream actually do for under-eye wrinkles?

Mostly, it adds moisture, and moisture changes how lines look. Mayo Clinic explains that moisturizers temporarily plump the skin, which makes lines less visible (Mayo Clinic). The AAD says a moisturizer can plump up fine lines within a few days (AAD).

Here's the honest version, side by side:

Table sources: Mayo Clinic and the AAD.

There's a legal line here, too. The FDA says a product meant to make lines less noticeable by moisturizing is a cosmetic, while one meant to remove wrinkles or change how skin makes collagen is a drug (FDA). So an honest cosmetic eye cream talks about how your skin looks, not about changing it.

Which eye cream ingredients are worth knowing?

You'll see the same handful of ingredient types over and over. Here's what each is there for.

Price isn't a good guide. Mayo Clinic notes that an expensive wrinkle cream may not work better than a less expensive one (Mayo Clinic), and the AAD says there are effective, affordable products in regular store aisles (AAD).

How do you apply cream for under-eye wrinkles?

Gently, and in the right order. The AAD's order is cleanser, then any treatment, then moisturizer and sunscreen, then makeup (AAD). For the eye area:

1. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and pat dry.
2. Use your ring finger. The AAD says it's the weakest finger, so it won't pull too hard on the delicate skin around your eyes (AAD).
3. Tap a small amount along the orbital bone under your eye. Don't rub, and keep it out of the eye itself.
4. Finish with sunscreen in the morning. The AAD recommends broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher every day (AAD).

Start with one new product at a time. Using several products for the look of aging at once can irritate skin, and irritated skin looks older (AAD). Test it on your inner forearm twice a day for 4 to 5 days first, and stop if it stings or burns. Our guide to trying new skin care products walks through it.

How long does an eye cream take to work?

A few days for the plumping look of moisture, and at least six weeks for most other products. The AAD says it can sometimes take three months (AAD). Keep using it if you like what you see, because the look fades when you stop.

What helps under-eye skin more than any cream?

Sunscreen. In a 4.5-year trial of 903 adults under 55 in Australia, the group that used broad-spectrum sunscreen daily showed no detectable increase in skin aging, and their skin aged 24% less than the group that used it whenever they chose (Hughes et al., 2013).

The AAD and Mayo Clinic add a few more habits:

• Wear sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat outside (AAD).
• Skip tanning, from the sun or a tanning bed (AAD).
• Moisturize every day (AAD).
• Don't smoke (Mayo Clinic).
• Get enough sleep (AAD).

We cover more everyday habits in how to look after your skin as it ages. If you want bigger changes than a cream can give, a board-certified dermatologist can talk you through prescription creams, injections, chemical peels, microneedling and laser therapy (Mayo Clinic).

Where does Luma Lift fit?

Luma Lift eye cream is a lightweight, clear gel that goes on top of your regular eye cream or moisturizer. As it dries, you'll feel it tighten, a temporary effect that helps smooth the look of fine lines and crow's feet. Per its product page, it contains sodium hyaluronate for hydration, three peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl octapeptide-3 and palmitoyl tripeptide-1), and acai, perilla, white oak bark and Irish moss extracts.

Read with the table above: the sodium hyaluronate is the moisture part, and the peptides are there for a smoother look. Tap a very small amount over your eye cream with your ring finger, patch test first, and keep it out of your eyes. Our Luma Lift how-to has the full steps. You'll find it with our other eye products in eye care. Individual results vary.

FAQ

What is the best cream for under-eye wrinkles?

There isn't one best cream for everyone. Look for one made for the eye area, with a moisturizing ingredient like hyaluronic acid and a full ingredient list. Use it with daily sunscreen, and give it at least six weeks.

Do eye wrinkle creams actually work?

They can make fine lines look softer, mostly by adding moisture. Mayo Clinic says the improvements are usually small and fade when you stop. They won't give results like a dermatologist's procedures.

Why are my under eyes so wrinkly all of a sudden?

Dryness is a common reason, since fine lines show more on dry skin. A new product can play a part, too: the AAD says irritated skin makes signs of aging more noticeable. If the change comes with swelling, redness or itching, stop new products and see a doctor.

Can I use retinol under my eyes?

Some eye creams contain retinol, but it can irritate the thin skin there, and Mayo Clinic says not to use it during pregnancy. Start slowly and stop if it stings. Ask a dermatologist if you're unsure.

Can you get rid of under-eye wrinkles naturally?

You can help them look softer. Moisturize daily, wear sunscreen and sunglasses, don't smoke and get enough sleep. These habits protect the skin around your eyes, but they won't make existing lines disappear.

Should eye cream go on before or after moisturizer?

The AAD's order is cleanser, then any treatment, then moisturizer and sunscreen. Luma Lift is different: it goes on top of your regular eye cream or moisturizer.

Luma by Laura makes and sells Luma Lift, the eye cream mentioned in this article.